Early History
The origins of lapidary (gemstone cutting) likely date back to India around 2,300 BC. The term 'manikyam', meaning something like sphere or bead, first appears in the writings of this period. This suggests that gemstones were already being fashioned into beads at that time.
In the ancient civilizations of Egypt, Greece, and Rome, lapidaries also used basic techniques such as splitting and grinding to shape gemstones. These early processes, which persisted until the 14th century, were extremely laborious and time-consuming. Lapidaries worked with simple tools like copper disks, grinding powders, and polishing powders. The rough surface of the gemstones was removed by grinding until a round shape was achieved – this is how the cabochon cut was developed, which is considered the oldest type of cut in history and is still used today.
A Turning Point in the 14th Century
From the early 14th century, the invention of the diamond grinding wheel marked a revolution in the history of gemstone cutting. This innovation enabled precise cuts, allowing gemstones to be processed into a variety of shapes. The emergence of the so-called faceted cut dates back to the processing of raw diamonds, which surface in the form of octahedral prisms.
These facets are ground with the help of a wooden board with holes mounted to the side of the turntable, known as a ‘Lochbrett’ (index plate), and a wooden rod called a ‘Kittstock’ (dop stick). Depending on the required angle, the dop stick is inserted into the holes in the board, thus forming the facets on the top and bottom (also called the crown and pavilion) of the gemstone. One of the earliest known types of cut is the step cut. It became established through the processing of emeralds, as it proved sensible due to their naturally occurring corners. Therefore, it is often referred to as the emerald cut. Other early known types of cuts are the rose cut and the table cut. The faceted cut quickly became the preferred method for transparent gemstones, while the cabochon cut remained popular for opaque gemstones or those with inclusions that reduced their value.
At the end of the 14th century, Idar-Oberstein, the home of HC Arnoldi, developed into the center of the art of gemstone cutting in Germany. Further information on the history of Idar-Oberstein can be found in our blog post: "Idar-Oberstein – The Gemstone Capital".
The Path to Modernity
The processing of diamonds laid the foundation for the timeless brilliant cut, which was first realized in the late 19th or early 20th century thanks to new grinding and polishing techniques as well as precision tools. It emerged in several stages, through the addition of ever more facets, which eventually created the brilliance we are accustomed to today.
Over the course of the 20th century, gemstone processing was modernized through technological progress. Faceting machines were developed that, with the help of a so-called quadrant, allow the grinding angle to be set precisely via a digital display and a mechanical wheel. In addition, methods such as CAD (Computer Aided Design) now allow for higher precision in cutting while simultaneously reducing material loss. Despite these advances, the traditional art of cutting with the index plate and dop stick is still preserved today.
Nowadays, there are a multitude of different cutting patterns. Newer variants such as the fancy cut, or the princess and heart shapes, show that the art of cutting is continuously evolving. There are no limits to the creativity of the cutters, which leads to the creation of numerous unique cutting patterns known as fantasy cuts. The Atelier Munsteiner in Idar-Oberstein is considered the birthplace of this special style of cut in Germany.
Are you interested in the exact procedure for cutting a gemstone?
Read our blog post “The Cutting Process of our Gemstones at HC Arnoldi”!
